Old Town

You may not know this, but Rennes has one of the best historic downtown areas in France, with the highest number of houses from the Renaissance and middle ages—except for Strasbourg. The ideal starting point is Place des Lices (named after the medieval tournaments that took place there), which is full of half-timbered houses and roofs shaped like boat hulls. After taking in Saint-Pierre Cathedral (and its incredible 16th-century altarpiece), head for the flower-filled courtyards of Rue du Chapitre and Rue Saint-Sauveur to see the amazing half-timbered houses with many colorful facades. Then, make your way to the Parliament of Brittany—followed by the Opera House and City Hall’s pavilions in Place de la Mairie—before reaching Place du Champ-Jacquet, our favorite square with lop-sided facades and Hôtel de Tizé, an exquisite wood and stone structure.

After two years in business, Le MeM has become a must-visit spot when staying in Rennes. Close to the Apigné Lakes and blending perfectly into the landscape, the large wooden marquee hosts concerts, shows, festivals, and popular dances. And that’s not all! An outdoor cafe (or guinguette) is set up close to the marquee as soon as the weather heats up. Laze about on converted pallet chairs and sip on an aperitif, before enjoying fresh salads and grilled barbecue dishes at one of the long picnic tables.

Only early-risers will get to see stalls fill up at daybreak on Saturdays with fish and seafood, rare poultry, organic fruits and vegetables from local market gardeners, cheeses, flowers, local breads, and cider. The whole city turns out for market day—from top chefs to bona fide foodies. An unmissable experience, this visit is a gateway to the region’s gastronomic heritage, all within a setting that begins to buzz to life as the hours tick by. Be sure to save room for the must-have sausage pancake, known as an “Armorican hot dog”. And don’t forget about the two exquisite covered marketplaces, built in 1868 and inspired by Baltard’s Parisian pavilions.

Jean-Louis Serre and Mathieu Marie wanted to give the residents of Rennes a place for daily living in a very special setting. They clearly nailed it with their chosen spot—a 1940s residential building and the former home of mosaic artist, Odorico—whose facade they have carefully preserved: an arrangement of broken tiles and bay windows lined with black mosaic. Halfway between an eatery and art gallery, Bretone extends from the ground floor to the (very) exquisite rooftop. The property is now a hybrid tearoom, restaurant, and sumptuous creperie that occupies the former bathroom, complete with Odorico’s mosaic of fishes and waves. The various spaces can host around 180 diners, and is often at full capacity. Be sure to book ahead!

With Tugdual Debethune, everything moves quickly, sometimes in the blink of an eye! After managing several establishments (notably Auberge de l’Ill), the chef decided to step into the kitchen by opening his own restaurant in 2018. Earning a Michelin star after just over a year in business, Holen also boasts a Green Star for its commitment to sustainable gastronomy. A fitting reward for cuisine that’s seasonal, daring, and creative, which showcases products grown through permaculture or biodynamic practices. Served in a space with rough-hewn wooden tables and mismatched chairs, paintings of seaweed, and a library full of cookbooks.

What do Pierre Tal Coat and François Dilasser have in common? They’re both household names in Breton art. So, make plans to visit FRAC Bretagne (the Regional Contemporary Art Fund): a stunning red and white building designed by architect Odile Decq. After marveling at Aurélie Nemours’s perfectly aligned granite columns, inspired by Carnac’s megalithic stones, get ready to lose yourself in a collection of 5,000 works (by regional, French, and international artists). The pieces are skillfully presented by theme—from Lyrical Abstraction (Bernard Frize and Kees Visser) to the relationship between art and nature (Giuseppe Penone and Richard Long). Make sure you take in the exhibitions on display both inside and outside of FRAC. There’s also a host of events, like Family Workshops with artist Claire Guetta or FRAC’s mini pals, which gives younger visitors the chance to be a photographer or to dream up and design a poster for their very own exhibition.

Michel Guilleux opened this amazing bookstore in 1989 before passing the torch to his son Pascal, who shares the same thirst for adventure. On our last visit to the bookstore, we stocked up on some hiking topo-guides, IGN maps of Brittany’s long-distance trails, as well as some adventure novels and travelogues. We also took the obligatory tour through Pascal and his team’s ever-growing selection. The favorites du jour ranged from a guide to wild swimming in France to “L’Himalaya Breton”—an amazing account of Nicolas Legendre’s road trip through Brittany’s mountains—to an exquisite book on local freshwater fish, with fantastic watercolor illustrations. You get it, this place is a definite must!

One of the oldest gardens in Rennes, and definitely the most exquisite. The Thabor Gardens started with a single orchard, owned by the monks of Saint-Mélaine Benedictine Abbey. It would not begin to reassemble the beautiful setting we know today until the 19th century, when it was redesigned by landscape artist, Denis Bühler. The site now spans 10 hectares, boasting a French-style garden, an English-style park permeated with wild grass, a botanical garden with 3,000 plant varieties, a bandstand, grottos, ponds and statues, and a magnificent rose garden with over 1,000 different species, including the elusive black rose. There is also a wonderful and lively conservatory, which is a popular spot where Rennes locals get together for a drink at the bandstand bar or to enjoy one of the many organized festivals, such as Sundays at Mont-Thabor.

Located by the docks of the River Vilaine, this museum can easily go toe to toe with more famous institutions. There’s something for everyone, from the Antiquity rooms that house ancient funerary markers to works by Lyrical Abstraction masters, Nicolas de Staël and Pierre Soulages. Between these spaces, you can see some stellar examples of 17th-century French art from Georges de La Tour, the Le Nain brothers, or Philippe de Champaigne. Take in the dazzling “The Tiger Hunt” by Flemish Baroque painter Rubens, or visit an entire room dedicated to the Impressionists, with Gustave Caillebotte placed front and center. The cherry on top? Christophe-Paul de Robien’s cabinet of curiosities with engravings by Botticelli, Leonardo da Vinci, and Rembrandt.

Occupying the cellar of a former residential building on Place du Champ-Jacquet, this night-time bar is THE place in Rennes for after-hour festivities. Behind the solemn stone vaults are two floors that fan out into several spaces with very different vibes. Stop by for one of its ultra-trendy events—like Transmusicales—where sought-after DJs take turns on the decks. Unveiled almost thirty years ago, the same mantra is still being passed down to new generations of revelers at La Contrescarpe: “Follow the beat. Party on repeat!”

This offbeat venue is based in a former storage building that’s been given a vintage makeover. Discover the food-court-style restaurant where barbecue is king, complete with ribs, pulled pork, burgers, grilled chicken, and fish. This cool and unassuming establishment attracts a wide array of visitors—from families to groups of friends—who come for the fine selection of draft beers, rum, and whisky. Be sure to check out the barber and tattoo corners, the auto and motorcycle workshop, and the boutique area where you can shop all of Avec & Co’s favorites. A location that’s a little out of the way, but well worth the trip!

After two years in business, Le MeM has become a must-visit spot when staying in Rennes. Close to the Apigné Lakes and blending perfectly into the landscape, the large wooden marquee hosts concerts, shows, festivals, and popular dances. And that’s not all! An outdoor cafe (or guinguette) is set up close to the marquee as soon as the weather heats up. Laze about on converted pallet chairs and sip on an aperitif, before enjoying fresh salads and grilled barbecue dishes at one of the long picnic tables.

The old towpath is perfect for running and the lush grass by the water is ideal for lazing around on folding chairs. Let’s not forget the small beach for a quick dip when the temperatures begin to soar.

Think perfectly blended fish soup and buckwheat pancakes topped with buttermilk jelly—true culinary gems to enjoy in a lovely garden when the the warm weather arrives.